Dry clean: dirt, soil etc...

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Will using the Dry Cleaning Pad by Staedtler be considered restoration?

No, don't let the name fool you. It's simply a cloth hackey-sack like bag that has a grit free like powder that functions much like an eraser.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/alvin-dry-cleaning-pad/

The best kind of eraser to use on comics is called a drafting eraser.

 

They dont look like an eraser most people are used to. They are actually very similar to silly putty in appearance because of how malleable they are.

 

Another way to dry clean a comic is something called a Dry Cleaning Pad by Staedtler.

 

One of these days I will get around to posting a video of the proper ways to dry clean a comic. I don't think this information needs to stay so esoteric.

 

Also much of my training came from my internship at the Smithsonian in document restoration from my schooling in historical archaeology.

can I pay you to getting around on posting tutorials asap?

The best kind of eraser to use on comics is called a drafting eraser.

 

They dont look like an eraser most people are used to. They are actually very similar to silly putty in appearance because of how malleable they are.

 

Another way to dry clean a comic is something called a Dry Cleaning Pad by Staedtler.

 

One of these days I will get around to posting a video of the proper ways to dry clean a comic. I don't think this information needs to stay so esoteric.

 

Also much of my training came from my internship at the Smithsonian in document restoration from my schooling in historical archaeology.

Actually, these are both the wrong tools to use. The dry cleaning pad is really best used for cleaning a work surface or desk area, not comic book covers. The eraser grit will scratch the cover surface. Minute scratches, but scratches nonetheless. And the best eraser to use is not a drafting eraser. White gum. Period. Pentel makes a pencil-tipped one that is very handy.

Actually, these are both the wrong tools to use. The dry cleaning pad is really best used for cleaning a work surface or desk area, not comic book covers. The eraser grit will scratch the cover surface. Minute scratches, but scratches nonetheless. And the best eraser to use is not a drafting eraser. White gum. Period. Pentel makes a pencil-tipped one that is very handy.

I'm going to say I trust the training I was given by professionals who have been doing document preservation and restoration for years(decades really). There are techniques for these tools that make them very useful which I will share with everyone else in the coming future.

The best kind of eraser to use on comics is called a drafting eraser.

 

They dont look like an eraser most people are used to. They are actually very similar to silly putty in appearance because of how malleable they are.

 

Another way to dry clean a comic is something called a Dry Cleaning Pad by Staedtler.

 

One of these days I will get around to posting a video of the proper ways to dry clean a comic. I don't think this information needs to stay so esoteric.

 

Also much of my training came from my internship at the Smithsonian in document restoration from my schooling in historical archaeology.

 

Actually, these are both the wrong tools to use. The dry cleaning pad is really best used for cleaning a work surface or desk area, not comic book covers. The eraser grit will scratch the cover surface. Minute scratches, but scratches nonetheless. And the best eraser to use is not a drafting eraser. White gum. Period. Pentel makes a pencil-tipped one that is very handy.

The dry cleaning pads/powder have no grit and when used properly leave no scratches. When I used them I didn't use the pad itself but my hand. Basically you squeeze the pad above the paper to distribute the powder, (or just use the powder itself which you can buy in bulk.)

To me the problem with using the pad is that the pad itself can pickup contaminants/particulates that could cause scratches through improper storage, being placed on a dirty surface, cleaning a work surface with it etc.

I like using the hand/fingers (well washed and dried) because it gives you much more control over the pressure being applied and where that pressure is directed.

It is also critical to prepare the book and the work area by insuring they are totally cleaned of any surface particles that can also cause scratching. I used a soft wide brush for that.

As regards erasers, I used a Mars white eraser. Very soft and non-abrasive. BUT there are a couple of techniques beyond grabbing the eraser and rubbing.

Use a single edged razor to cut slices off the razor appropriate for smaller areas. I liked to angle the shape to get a fine edge which offers more variety in the surface area being erased. I also used a thin aluminum template of various shapes to get near lettering etc. with risking removing any ink.

It is all more than just rubbing the book. I also look forward to seeing videos of the techniques.

 

I like using the hand/fingers (well washed and dried) because it gives you much more control over the pressure being applied and where that pressure is directed.

 

It is also critical to prepare the book and the work area by insuring they are totally cleaned of any surface particles that can also cause scratching. I used a soft wide brush for that.

This is one of the techniques I was taught. I normally never use the pad itself for cleaning but rather rub the pad between my hands a few times letting the powder sprinkle down on the book. Then using my fingers to gently massage the powder over the surface lightly.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

Most likely so without proper instruction.

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

 

Most likely so without proper instruction.

 

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

Yes, but so does jerking off . . . don't use a pad. There is no such thing as a no-grit pad (sorry, Michael). Get a scope out and look at the surface you just cleaned - you'll see the scratches. White gum is the only eraser to use.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

 

Most likely so without proper instruction.

 

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

 

Yes, but so does jerking off . . . don't use a pad. There is no such thing as a no-grit pad (sorry, Michael). Get a scope out and look at the surface you just cleaned - you'll see the scratches. White gum is the only eraser to use.

David - I agree with you. The PAD may have grit due to things I already outlined. The CONTENTS of the pad is grit free and it is why it is squeezed over the paper to distribute the powder.

The hand should be used to apply the powder to the book.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

 

Most likely so without proper instruction.

 

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

 

Yes, but so does jerking off . . .

Wow that's classy. I think I will bow out of this now.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

 

Most likely so without proper instruction.

 

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

 

Yes, but so does jerking off . . . don't use a pad. There is no such thing as a no-grit pad (sorry, Michael). Get a scope out and look at the surface you just cleaned - you'll see the scratches. White gum is the only eraser to use.

 

David - I agree with you. The PAD may have grit due to things I already outlined. The CONTENTS of the pad is grit free and it is why it is squeezed over the paper to distribute the powder.

 

The hand should be used to apply the powder to the book.

I used the pad, and it scratched this mess out of my practice book.

 

Most likely so without proper instruction.

 

That would be like you saying, I tried tight-rope walking for the first time and fell. Takes practice and technique.

 

Yes, but so does jerking off . . .

 

Wow that's classy. I think I will bow out of this now.

 

I have no doubt that you may know what you are doing, but to provide half the answer to the un-initiated can be deleterious

 

I have no doubt that you may know what you are doing, but to provide half the answer to the un-initiated can be deleterious

Err, Za and I both described the proper technique above.

 

I like using the hand/fingers (well washed and dried) because it gives you much more control over the pressure being applied and where that pressure is directed.

 

It is also critical to prepare the book and the work area by insuring they are totally cleaned of any surface particles that can also cause scratching. I used a soft wide brush for that.

 

This is one of the techniques I was taught. I normally never use the pad itself for cleaning but rather rub the pad between my hands a few times letting the powder sprinkle down on the book. Then using my fingers to gently massage the powder over the surface lightly.

I was referring to Za's entire body of work in this thread. And he only chimed in with your technique after someone scratched the heck out of one of his books Nor did he discuss avoiding inked areas.

Kind of wish I'd have known the hazards before hand

I tried to do a search too, but you'd have an easier time finding schematics for your own nuclear reactor. If the government ever wanted to keep something a secret, they'd just have to tie the information to improving a comic book's condition somehow.

great thread (up until a wee bit o' ugly).

I've been experimenting with using various erasers on "test" comics (read: pieces of ), including using an electric eraser. I've had varying success...

...Comics with very white backs clean fairly well with little abrasion.

...older comics, with beige or tan backs, I've noticed a get a fair amount of abrasion.

I want to make sure I'm not harming the comics. So...

...what's the best way to use an eraser on white areas of comics?

...can I use an eraser on tan/beige covers?

...does slight or moderate abrasion harm the grade of the book and would CGC consider it restored?

Thanks kindly and happy holidays!!

Nice to see there is another Professional conservator. Im a specialized water gilder working for Getty and a lab here in Santa Barbara. I have to say though I did not receive a warm welcome

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